Wednesday, 13 June 2012

New Library Addition

Thanks to my lovely wife Lady Avelyn, I have a new addition to my leatherworking library. One of the key books from a research perspective that I was missing was "Knives and Scabbards (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London)". Missing no more, since as an early birthday present it has now been added to the collection.

I haven't had a chance to look through it yet, but I'm sure there's going to be lots of interesting information.

From a recreating the objects point of view, I don't think you can beat the Goubitz books ("Purses in Pieces" and "Stepping Through Time") just because of the quality of his illustrations and the fact that he often shows you the shapes for the actual leather patterns to make the object, but these Museum of London books (I also have "Shoes and Pattens") seem to have a lot of historical research in them that could be useful.

The title has been added to my LibraryThing list in the right-hand column of the blog if you'd like to see what else is on my leatherworking bookshelf.

Thursday, 7 June 2012

Research Links - Money Changer's Stick-Purse

This is a link dump of URLs for paintings, woodcuts and other illustrations of the stick-purse for ease of printing later. Some may go a bit later than period but I'll pick and choose what I use once I'm pulling together my documentation. A lot of these sources will likely be similar to those that Mistress Elizabeth has used for her class notes.

1) Vanitas Still Life
Edwaert Collier

Post-period (dated 1662)
http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/110000351#fullscreen

2) The Rich Man from the Parable (Moneychanger)
Rembrandt
Post-Period (dated 1627)

http://www.wikipaintings.org/en/rembrandt/the-rich-man-from-the-parable-1627

3) The Moneylender
Gerrit Dou
Post-Period (1664)

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Gerard_Dou_-_The_Moneylender_-_WGA06649.jpg or
http://www.backtoclassics.com/gallery/gerritdou/themoneylender/

4) The Miser
Hendrick Gerritsz Pot
Post Period (1640's)
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hendrick_Gerritsz_Pot_-_The_Miser_-_WGA18198.jpg

5) Old woman with a candle
Matthias Stomer
Post Period (1640's)

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Matthias_Stom_-_Old_Woman_with_a_Candle_-_WGA21809.jpg

6) The Moneychanger and His Wife
Marinus van Reymerswale
In-Period (1539)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Marinus_Claesz._van_Reymerswaele_001.jpg

7) The Banker and his Wife
Marinus van Reymerswale
In-Period (1500's)

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Marinus_van_Reymerswale_-_The_Banker_and_His_Wife_-_WGA19323.jpg or

8) Beware of Luxury
Jan Steen
Post-Period (1665)
http://www.museumsyndicate.com/item.php?item=871

9) Avarice
Workshop of Abraham Bloemaert
Post-Period (1625)
http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/79914.html?mulR=3616%7C5 (engraving) or
http://www.photo.rmn.fr/cf/htm/CSearchZ.aspx?o=&Total=52&FP=63049854&E=2K1KTSGGIE2LU&SID=2K1KTSGGIE2LU&New=T&Pic=37&SubE=2C6NU034B3@Q

10) Woodcuts & Pictures of Extant Examples
Goubitz reproduces woodcuts from Brugel and Amman in Purses in Pieces but I am still looking for links. He also has pictures of the two remaining examples of the purses, found in the Neatherlands.
In-Period (1500's)

Update: Dec 2012

11) Backgammon spelend paar,
Jacob Matham
In Period (1600)
https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/RP-P-OB-27.054

Monday, 4 June 2012

Planning my research - money changer's stick-purse

So I've been putting some thought into how I want to go about the work on my next Kingdom A&S project - the money-lender's stick-purse. Given all of my other projects I don't think it will be ready for this year's A&S event, but who knows.

Other than Purses in Pieces and a few period paintings, there is very little information about the stick-purse that I've been able to find. However, I had a really lucky discovery last week in stumbling on the LiveJournal of Mistress Elizabeth Vynehorn of the East Kingdom (http://vynehorn.livejournal.com/) who, it turns out, has already done some research into the stick-purse and developed a Pennsic class on how to make them. She's actually planning on teaching it at Pennsic this year, so that will be going on my to-do list for sure. Mistress Elizabeth was kind enough to share her course notes with me, which totally rocks. I'm looking forward to the class.

Now, what I need to figure out is some of the details of how I want to go about recreating the purse.

Based on my comments from last Kingdom A&S, there were no real concerns with my research. I got very high marks there. The comments were in two main areas:
  1. Non-period materials being used
  2. Cleanness of the detail work
I'll do my best to fix up the second point but a lot of that is going to come as I get more experienced with leatherworking techniques. But I can do something about the first point, so I think that's where I'm going to focus.

Mistress Elizabeth's class notes revealed some interesting info that she got directly from the one museum on the Netherlands that has a surviving stick-purse. I think I'll likely send the museum an e-mail and see if I can get a bit more information about the specific materials used for their purse to supplement what Mistress Elizabeth provided.

I'd like to know if they can tell me anything about the thickness and type of the leather used (for both the pouches and the handle braiding), whether there is any evidence of colouring or other ornamentation (which would confirm the artistic renditions that can be found in period paintings) and any information about the measurements of the various components so that I can get the scale of the handle and pouches as close as possible.

On the assumption that the period paintings are accurate, I've started doing some research into period leather dyes to verify what colours would have been available in the period for leather. I may not be able to use actual period dyes (I have some recipes but not sure I want to go there yet) but I can probably replicate some of the colour tones by watering down some of my modern water-based dyes so they give a more translucent colour. That will help with the judging I think, as they had concerns about my use of chrome-tanned leather with a colour that wasn't entirely period.

I think I'll do as much research as possible pre-Pennsic, and then I can focus on construction after I've taken the course and hopefully heard back from the museum.


Sunday, 3 June 2012

Leg Armour Modifications

While Avelyn has bought some new metal knee armour we haven't figured out how we want to mount them yet. We'll probably wait until she has her new padded gambeson and pants ready and then work it out for her new armour.

In the interim, we've decided to modify her old leg armour to make it easier for her to armour up. Right now all of the straps buckle behind her legs, making it almost impossible for her to get into her armour on her own given how bulky it is.

Last night I popped the rivets on all of the leg straps and moved the buckles so that they are at the front. It increases the chances of her getting hit on a buckle a bit, but it also will hopefully mean she can actually get out on the field more often to get hit in the first place. :)

Of course, by moving the buckles, the straps themselves needed to be replaced since they are not long enough any more, so that all got done as well. Tonight after the Canton meeting, I'll get her to put them on so I can figure out where to punch the holes in the straps, and where to trim the straps so they don't dangle too much.

I also checked all of the other straps and lacing and everything seems to be holding up well. The kidney belt I made is definitely doing the job, so it's possible we'll re-use it for the new legs. She's been using this set-up with very few repairs for at least three years now so I'm pretty happy with its durability.

Tuesday, 29 May 2012

Latest Updated Project List

So on the weekend Avelyn reminded me of a couple of projects I had promised her, so I'm updating my project list (completed items from previous list crossed out).

  1. Pouch for Avelyn to replace the one that got wrecked at Pennsic
  2. 3 prizes for rapier activities at Border Spat Was actually two
  3. 5-7 thank you gifts for Border Spat Was actually eight
  4. Figure out engineering and pattern for money-changer's pouch
  5. Look into late-period women's leather belts for THL Catherine Done May 30
  6. Re-strap Avelyn's leg armour to make the buckles more accessible
  7. Make sheath for Avelyn's Norse knife
  8. Replace Avelyn's favour (likely make a second more sturdy one for wearing in armour as well)
  9. Finish Avelyn's lamellar
  10. Make Lady Thora's rapier sheath Done July 22
  11. Start work on new leather leg pieces for Avelyn's new knee armour (priority will depend on how we do with updating the current legs)
  12. Add hip and back protection to Avelyn's armour belt Done July 22
  13. Figure out shoe pattern

Thursday, 24 May 2012

Researching - Money-Changer's Purse

With my major work finished for Border Spat, it's time to start thinking about what I want to work on next. I still have a request from Lady Thora for a rapier sheath, and have Avelyn's armour to work on but otherwise I'm done all my projects. So, while I work on crafting those, I can start my research for my next big project.

When I was first reading through Purses in Pieces, one of the pouches caught my attention. Not sure how practical it would be, but I thought it would make a really neat Kingdom A&S project.

I have to say I've never seen one in the SCA context or at any merchant, so that may tell me something. But, I'm nothing if not willing to take on stupid projects so I'm going to start looking into it.

It's a type of money-changer's purse so has multiple pockets for multiple types and denominations of currency. This particular style seems to have the various pouches hanging off a handle or stick (hence why they are also sometimes called stick purses). Here's a quote from Purses in Pieces describing the style:

"The other type has a stick handle, to which are attached four to six pouches, each with their pouchlets: a 'father purse'. All of the pouches and pouchlets were closed with a thong or strap according to the drawstring principle."

As a start, here's a painting of a money-changer with the type of purse I'm thinking of (Avarice, workshop of Abraham Bloemaert, c. 1625): http://www.photo.rmn.fr/LowRes2/TR1/Z9OZ4U/09-530024.jpg

Based on the images, it looks like the stick is also covered with braided or woven leather.

So, things I'll need to figure out:
  • Confirm the pouch style is period
  • What weight of leather should I use. Possibly different weights for different parts of the purse.
  • What colours? Will probably start out with whatever I have on hand that's the correct weight but for the final A&S entry I'll want to be more specific
  • How do I attach the purse(s) to the stick and/or each other
  • What are the proportions and sizes of the various components (stick, main pouch(s), pouchlets etc.)

Note: references and images found on http://www.larsdatter.com/pouches.htm, a really great resource for documentation.

Sunday, 13 May 2012

Border Spat - The Big Reveal

Well, Border Spat has come and gone and after all of the late nights and hard work it appears to have been a resounding success.

All of my leatherwork projects were really well received.

The Challengers who were helping with the Dean prize fights seemed pleased and surprised with the pouches and marshal kits. I also gave some of my extra sword flex testers to His Majesty Edward the Red, His Excellency Giovanni (through Her Excellency) and to our Kingdom Rapier Marshal THL Lars. I also gave one to one of our newer fencers, Faustus, who won two of the three rounds of the rooftop tournament.

The red belt pouch (which I had originally started as part of my Kingdom A&S project), was won by a noble from Dragon Dormant for chivalrous behaviour during the Baronial Selection tourney. As an aside, Faustus also won a box of Peeps for the best death of the tourney.

The sword sheath, which received a fair bit of attention, was also won by another noble from Dragon Dormant for his victory in the first round of the rooftop tourney. Hopefully it will work with his sword, as the blunts the fencers from Dragon Dormant were using were a bit wider than ours.

All in all, a good day of fencing.

Now, to the pictures:

All of the projects for Border Spat




The pouch for chivalrous behaviour in the
Baronial Selection tourney
The pouches for the Challengers
Inside the pouches


Wide view of the sheath
Medium view of the sheath


Close up of the sheath